One Foot in Front of the Other

I’d like to say that trekking the Annapurna was exactly what I expected it to be: Endless panoramic view of the world’s highest mountain range, an up close look at the local villages and a chance to see how the Nepalese lived in such remote places. I also expected a pretty good workout and to further test my abilities as a climber. It is this last item in which the Annapurna Circuit pushed me way beyond my expectations.

Part of climbing, and what I love so much about it, is the freedom that comes with being off everyone’s radar. You are completely reliant on yourself. There is no winning or losing or even keeping score for that matter. You either do it or you don’t. The trick is knowing, and accepting, when you “don’t”.

What makes the Annapurna Circuit so interesting is that it is a marathon and there is plenty of time for anything to happen. In our case it was Mika coming down with a stomach bug while we were trying to acclimate to the high elevation. At Upper Pisang on the fifth night, Mika got sick. I’m not totally sure I know why she got sick. We think it was a combination of the altitude and the food but I don’t know which came first. Regardless, it persisted on and off got the next eight days. By the time we reached Yak Kharta on the afternoon of Day 8 I started thinking about exit options. We were 2 days from summiting the pass, two to three days from an airport (maybe more depending on seat availability) and 7 days from walking out.

This hike quickly became my test. No matter how we had gotten there, Mika was looking to me for answers and how to get us out. This was her first (and probably last!) time trying anything like this and so she had no idea what to expect. (She was also spending an inhumane amount of time in the bathrooms which I wouldn’t wish on anyone.) The night at Yak Kharta was endless. In the valley the sun was setting around 6pm. As soon as it got dark the temperature dropped 40-50 F°s - from the mid 60°’s in the afternoon to the teens and single digits at night. Yak Kharta is also located in the center of the valley above tree line so there is nothing to block the wind from rushing through the village. Mika took a nap in the courtyard sun when we arrived around 1pm and went back to the room around 5ish as the temperature began to drop. I think I ordered her a bowl of soup and brought it to the room. She had maybe three spoonfuls and then the fun started. The details of the night do not need to be repeated.

During the nights events I broached the subject of turning around. It was something I selfishly did not want to do but Mika had to know it was an option. On several occasions she refused and insisted that we move ahead. She was not giving up. The morning we left Yak Kharta for Ledar I knew we were going to make it. It wasn’t going to be easy but I could tell that Mika was going to will her body over the pass. She was determined. I’m not sure if I found myself in the same position I would be able to do what she did.

From that point on I became a one man cheering squad. All the “pleasantries” that Mika could throw at me were brushed off; it was just her frustration letting loose (Although it does give me certain liberties in the future!). I must have asked her 100 times a day how her feet were, how her stomach was, did she have a headache? We tried to talk about anything but the looming summit.

By the time we reached the top, I think Mika was finished. Her body, knowing that the worst was over, wanted to get down immediately. This was the toughest part of the climb for me. Here we were standing at the top of an 11 day journey and all I wanted to do was enjoy the moment. We had accomplished so much and an acknowledgment of our effort was in order. Mika’s body thought otherwise – we descended.

Over the next couple days her energy, and appetite, increased. We talked about the summit several times and I could not emphasize enough what an incredible thing she had just accomplished. She shrugged it off because she had not done it in the style she envisioned. I, on the other hand, believe that as long as you made it to the top under your own power you did it. No questions asked. I think she finally came around and now looks back with a sense of pride and accomplishment. Like every climber does, Mika learned that the body is an incredibly powerful tool – even when not at full strength. Hopefully, like me, she carries this knowledge into every aspect of her life.

The Annapurna Circuit was so many things for me. We met some wonderful people along the way, most of whom I hope I cross paths with again, and saw some amazing terrain. The Nepalese people live so simply that you think you have been transported back in time. The guides and porters that work in these mountains posses super human strength and endurance that allows normal people like us (that was a generalization – we did it the old fashion way) to see their home. It was also an incredible bonding experience for Mika and me. For almost a week we worked together getting each other over the pass. As ill as she was at some points she was still able to smile and laugh and every morning she got up and put her pack back on. I learned that my wife is a tough cookie, probably more than she knows, and if she ever complains about anything being too hard again I can always say, “”Is it harder than the Annapurna Circuit?” I didn’t think so.