Turkey

10/7 - 10/15

I think Mika and I can both agree that Turkey has always been catagorized as a "filler" for us on this trip. We had all these plans for Greece and Nepal but somehow had to travel to Istanbul to catch the flight to Kathmandu. We always assumed it would just happen. So, it is not suprising that when we got off the ferry in Marmarus (coming from Rhodes), we had to do some quick planning! We figured renting a car would be easiest and afford us the ability to meander to Kayseri over a couple days and catch a connecting flight to Istanbul. However, once in Marmarus we were slapped in the face with $100/day rental rates and $3.30 per litre gas costs. (I believe thats over $12/gallon.) So after stopping at 3 travel agencies trying to sort the mess out, we looked at each other and swallowed hard. On the simple fact that Rumi, who the rabbi quoted at our wedding, lived in a town called Konya, we booked another overnight bus ride - about 10 hours away. Mika blames my last post and says the bus gods are getting back at my negative attitude. I have since made my amends and I think we are on good terms. This bus, unlike the one in Greece, did not come with the yapping old ladies and hacking smokers. In fact, there was tea service!! All was not complete bliss however. Keep in mind that we are traveling to one of the most religious (Muslim) parts of the country. The Lonely Planet guidebook barely addresses this town and mentions not much more than it's strong commerce and again, its the most religious city in the country. So, a quarter of the way through the journey, the bus driver assistant (there are always 2 people working the bus - the driver and what I can only call the bus driver assistant!) comes over and tells Mika in his best Turkish that she has to move seats (the guy behind me typed the sentence on his computer and pushed the translate button!) It said that the "Armchairs were mixed"! Mika politely surrendered her seat to a man and moved to the front. We quickly became aware that this had something to do with her not having a penis. At the next stop, we told the bus driver assistant that this was not going to work. After minimal back and forth, he complied and the guy that had taken her seat happily sat on the floor next to us (as they had managed to oversell the bus)! So far, the Turkish people were pretty good!

The rest of the trip went quite smoothly. With the help of a couple dramamine, Mika slept for a while and we even managed to meet two guys from Quebec that were staying in Konya as well. Better yet, they had an idea of where they were going. Oh yeah, small detail. In the rush to figure out what we were doing and then catching the bus, we were not able to book or even find a hotel in our price range. Konya, it turns out, is not so cheap. So after being dropped off at 4:15am - somewhere in Turkey - Matt, Simon, Mika and I hoped in a taxi and headed to the "Centre". Matt had been to Turkey before and acted as our frontman. Within 15 minitues of being dropped off, we found a hotel and dropped our bags off. Unfortunatey we had 2-1/2 hours to kill until we could check in. Oh, and its 5:30am. So we walked. Luckily Konya's streets all go in circles so you can never really get lost. Just keep going until you are back where you started.

At 6am we heard it for the first time. I've heard it on TV before, but never live - the morning prayer being broadcast from the minnerets via huge megaphones. It was chilling to hear the first time and I had strange 9/11 type emotions. (We still cant figure out if its a live rendition or an automated broadcats because there is a weird noise the end that sounds like a tape player turning off). After you hear it a couple times though it almost becomes like basic clock. Funny, as I type this it just started again!

Konya is, for the most part, a religious outpost in the middle of the country and has somehow attracted big business to its suberbs. The town itself is very old and dilapidated. The men don't seem to do much but sit and watch the day go by while drinking their tea and smoking - and maybe pestering you to buy a rug. Mika and I have both agreed that the Turks smoke more than the Greeks. Which says a lot. The air always has a hint of tobacco in it. We learned about Rumi and the Wirling Dervishes and strolled the bazaars.

Along the way we were picked up by a man dressed in jeans, cowboy boots and a clean botton down with a purple sweater draped over his shoulders. I forget his name but I entertained him in hopes of some free chai. After realizing that we had no money for carpets, he told us stories about who knows what and showed us his pictures of his travels. Him in front of the space needle in Seattle, at the Statue of Liberty etc. He turns us on to a couple restaraunts and we depart with laughs and good wishes. Well it turns out that this guy might as well be the mayor of this little Konya square. Ever time we turn around there he is with his purple sweater perfectly placed. He sat down with us at dinner and told us stories of going to disco and making crazy love! Gotta love it!

I do have to mention one fairly strange thing that happened while in Konya - apart from the purple sweater guy. While booking a bus ticket, a guy had come by to help translate for the ticket taker. We made small talk and he asked our background. Somehow he got to ask me if I was Jewish. I responded Yes. He in turn responded by saying that "he thought so because I smelled like a Jew". I have no idea what this means. I think I was offended but am not sure why. Yes the guy was creepy but for the most part harmless - oh and supposedly he was Jewish too. Anyway, we aint in Kansas anymore.

We left the next morning for Groeme in the Cappadocia region. I have to give a quick shout out to Harvey and Jay for directing us here. Cappadocia is a little hard to explain. Pictures are better than words. Basically, the region was covered by volcanic lava and ash millions of years ago. It has since been eroded into mounds by wind and rain. This soft rock was then carved out to create homes by Christians as they fled from whomever might be trying to kill them at that moment. They lived underground in very complex caves. These caves and this area has since been turned into hotels, bars, night clubs etc.

I will always remember Cappacaonia as the place that Mika discovered that she likes board games. Or at least one game. Backgammon. After beating me repeatedly, Mika took a very strong liking to the game and we played for hours.

We are currently in Istanbul which is a nice mix of old and new. We are starting to get the flavors of Asia while still seeing the comforts of Europe. We probably need more time here but the mountains of Nepal are calling and mother nature waits for no one. This may be the last entry for a while. We are lucky to be in Nepal for the festival of Lights (no not Hannukah) which celebrates the Goddess Lakshmi. After what will hopefully be nights of festivities and fireworks we head into the Himilayans via the Annapurna Circuit for about 3 weeks.

Looking forward to writing about our adventures from the top of the world. Until then....

Alan and Mika