The Annapurna Circuit Part 2

Day 6: Upper Pisang to Manang (3540m)

We chose to continue following the trail out of Upper Pisang instead of heading to Lower Pisang and following the route along the river. The upper route ascends 470m before coming back down to the river at 3330m where it reconnects with the lower trail and continues on to Manang. The climb proves to be a good test of how to regulate ourselves in the higher altitude. The trail follows a series of many, many switchbacks until it reaches the village of Ghyaru. After passing through, the trail cuts back into the range and out of the windswept valley. Trees and shrubs resurface and the terrain becomes alpine again. Shortly after a long descent begins during which the terrain quickly turns from alpine to desert-like and by the time it reaches Manang only small low lining shrubs exist.

The day long hike provides panoramic views of the two Annapurna peaks and as you pull into Manang, Annapurna III nicely fills in the background. Manang is one of the largest villages on the trail. It is commonly used a multi-day stop for trekkers to acclimate and rest before making a final push over the pass. The village has two movie theatres (small rooms with a stove, a row of benches covered in yak fur and a TV.), a medical office with a Western doctor, bakeries and the opportunity to hire horses/porters to assist any weary climbers. There are also day hikes to nearby glaciers that we chose to ignore completely!

Day 7: Manang - Rest Day

We spent the day doing laundry, relaxing and taking a hot/warm shower. We caught a movie at one of the theatres (the movie was chosen by popular vote from the DVD library) and sat by the fire playing backgammon and eating chocolate cake. Well deserved!

Day 8: Manang to Yak Kharka (4018m)

The short 4 hour hike, which we took very slow, brought us above the 12,000 feet mark. Although the views continue to impress, the trail terrain is little more than rock, sand and small shrubs. Yak Kharka is a simple village with little to offer than a bed and meal. For the first time along our trek we had a room with a bathroom attached. This came in handy as Mika fell very ill later that afternoon. It was a long night after which we concluded that it would be faster to get up and over the pass than return back down. We are committed.

Day 9: Yak Kharka to Ledar (4200m)


About an hour up the trail, illness is requiring us to slow down and rest. Surprisingly enough we discovered that Mika’s illness was at least in part due to a bacterial food poisoning coupled with some level of AMS. She is relieved by the fact that there are many more ill people in Ledar, including our German friends who we thought had headed to the pass a day ahead of us, indicating that it was not the AMS causing the bulk of the illness.

Day 10: Ledar to Thorung Phedi (4450m)

This 4 hour stretch is the next to last push. The snow line grows closer and as you enter the village of Thorung Phedi you can feel the energy of summit day (or at least Alan could). The facilities are surprisingly good considering it is located at ~15,000 feet. We learn from one of the guest house owners that he flew in via helicopter equipment to create electricity from the nearby river. We also learned that most of the guest houses along the trail are owned by only four families! It reached -12 degrees Celsius that night.

Day 11: Summit Day - Thorung Phedi to Thorung La (5416m) to Muktinath (3760m)

Waking up at 3:45am, we eat breakfast and are on the trail by 4:45. The trail is steep and zigzags up the face. It is a cold two hour hike to base camp which is primarily used for the climbers summiting the neighboring peaks. It also provides a nice rest stop to warm up and watch the sun rise. From here on out the trail is a continuous, but slow, four hour climb to the pass although we kept on hearing it was just 20 minutes away! Or just over that ridge. It never ended! We were told that the oxygen levels in the air are now 50% of that at sea level. Whatever the percentage was, the going was slow and it was difficult to catch your breath.

Believe it or not there is a snack shop at the summit which serves hot drinks! The atmosphere is festive and the elevation marker is covered in Tibetan prayer flags. We spent just enough time at the summit for a couple pictures and to take in the view. It was then a long 6 hour descent down the other side. Absolutely brutal on the knees and calves. It began to get much warmer and we had to stop for water because we were both dehydrated.

We finally made it to the Bob Marley Guest House in Muktinath – easily the best food along the trail. After hot showers and some good food and drink, we all collapsed!

Day 12: Muktinath to Jomson (2720m)

The terrain on this side of the mountain range is very different. There are a couple scattered farms but it is mostly arid terrain set along a dried out riverbed. A four hour morning hike brought us below 10,000 feet. We ate lunch and then paid a couple local kids to take us the last few kilometers to Jomson on their tractor.

The village of Jomson is nothing to write home about. It mainly serves as an outpost for the Nepalese Army and as a departure point for trekkers due to its airport and this is where the road back to Pohkara begins. This is as far as the road has come to date. We found what we thought was quiet guesthouse towards the edge of town but it turned out a small music crew was there filming a video the next day. They got very drunk and there was a long draw out pushing match which ended up being our evening entertainment.

Our German friends, Stephan and Nannette, whom we had spent the last 12 days with, were flying back to Pohkara the next morning. This was the last night we would spend together. It was strange to say goodbye and head out on the trail alone after completing such an epic journey together.

Instead of following the road on foot and being continually dusted by the jeeps and buses we opted to catch a ride the next morning to a village about 40km down the trail known for its hot springs.

Day 13: Jomson to Tatopani (1190m)

To say the ride from Jomson to Tatopani was scary is a huge understatement. The “road” barely qualifies as anything more than a wide trail. It winds along the mountain cliffs sometimes several hundred feet above the valley floor and is littered with landslides and eroding edges. We kept switching seats because the view from the window made our stomachs churn and we each secretly wished we were walking again. The effects became even more dramatic when another vehicle approached from the opposite direction.

But the risk was well worth the reward. Tatopani was tremendous. In Nepalese, “Tato” means hot and “pani” means river and it is aptly named. The village is set on the river bank on top of a natural occurring hot spring which has been diverted to flow into two large stone lined pools. For 40 Nepalese Rupees (~0.60 USD) we could soak ourselves all day. There was even a snack and beverage stand pumping out beach music! It was here that we ran into a handful of the people we had met days earlier on our approach to the summit and it was good to catch up and exchange stories.

To top it all off our guesthouse was set among orange, lemon, and mandarin trees and served up some delicious fare.


Day 14: Totapani to Shikha (1935m)

After a lazy morning and long breakfast we hit the trail again. We veered off the road 10 minutes after leaving Tatopani and begin a two day climb that will take us up to Poon Hill for a panoramic view of the entire range. The trail was empty and the terrain has become lush and fertile again. We walk through several villages and it becomes apparent how hard these people must work just to move around every day. There isn’t a flat piece of land, other than the terraced fields, within sight. They literally live on the side of the mountains.

By late afternoon we are exhausted from the climb and stop about midway to Poon Hill. To be more accurate, Mika was not exhausted and practically skipped upped the last 50m of steps. It seemed the AMS and stomach bug had finally passed! The view from our room was only surpassed by that of the rooftop deck. A panorama of the entire range was beginning to unfold.

Day 15: Shikha to Ghorepani (2860m)

We both awoke feeling very sore. We immediately knew that this was not going to be as enjoyable as the previous day. After two weeks of hiking with 25-34 pound packs, we were beginning to feel the effects. We took our time and made it to Ghorepani by early afternoon. The views have only gotten better as we gained elevation and we chose to stay at the highest hotel in the village – aptly named the Highview Guest House! On a recommendation we got in Totapani we headed for a restaurant known for its corn bread. We stayed for 3 hours enjoying the food and talking to more hikers we had met earlier in the week.

Poon Hill is at 3193m and is only a short 45min hike from the village. It is the highest peak in the area and known to have superb sunrise views of the range. After much debate, we decide that we are probably only going to be here once so how could we not get up at 5am and see it.



Day 16: Ghorepani to Poon Hill (3193m) to Nayapul (1070m)

Although the views from Poon Hill were stunning and it was fun to be amongst the crowd for sunrise, the views were probably just as good from our hotel room! But after braving the morning cold to see the sunrise, and back to the corn bread restaurant for breakfast, we began the descent home. The first 2 hours were what we expected - a pleasant, descending hike through plush terrain. However, just after a village called Banthanti we came upon an area called the Stone Steps. For the next 3+ hours we walked down thousands of stone steps of varying heights. With the packs on this quickly became extremely taxing on the legs. Again, it was amazing to think that people lived on these steps. Every move they made was either up or down, every day of their lives. And just imagine the people that built these.

We eventually made it down and it was an hour or so further to Nayapul where a bus took us back to Pohkara. The strenuous days hike and the heat wore us out but the celebration would be had later that night at a proper restaurant after a long, hot shower!

Love -

Alan and Mika

Kathmandu to Pohkara Bus Ride 10-19

Somehow the travel day to Pokhara fell on my birthday and I was not looking forward to a 5 hour bus ride. Let me start off by saying that I get motion sickness just driving down the road in the passenger seat of our car at home. Add in tons of people, no AC, winding roads and an inability to see in front of me and we have a major problem. Alan keeps telling me that it’s all in my head but I feel it’s all in my stomach.

We left our hotel for the bus depot (a.k.a. the side of a busy lined street where you have to guess what bus you are on) to catch a noon departure. The local buses are a bit of a free for all, first come first seat and if you leave your seat good luck getting it back. We were one of the first people to arrive and I was very happy to get a seat along the bench that faced the driver in the very front of the bus. All the buses, trucks and rickshaws are decorated with funky, colorful painted designs, tassels, incense and bobbling deity statues. As we sat down the tassels kept hitting Alan in the face and when another woman wanted to squeeze herself in as the fourth person in a three seater bench Alan opted to grab an actual seat in the back of the bus. As we left town all the seats on the bus were full, but we continued to stop every kilometer for the next half hour to pick up more people. Soon the aisles were full and I lost sight of Alan as babies and snacks were being passed around amongst strangers. In between my bench and the driver’s seat was another small middle bench that was over the engine and surrounded the gear shift. Soon that filled up as well and I was knee to knee with the other passengers. A fifth person soon made their way onto the three seater bench along with two children that were sitting on laps. At one point I was holding a child’s balloon at another I was holding an older woman’s hands to keep her from falling over when the shock less bus turned or bounced over the uneven road. Even though it was cramped, it was a nice experience being surrounded by so many local females. Every once and a while when the bus made a sharp turn and all the people who were standing shifted to one side I could catch a glimpse of Alan, crammed up against a window on a seat near the back talking to a couple in front of him (Stephan and Nanette, a German couple who we would spend the next two weeks trekking with). After three hours the heat of the engine, the sun and lack of breeze began to get to me and when the bus made a quick stop we opted for the roof. Riding on the roof of vehicles is very common thing to do and sometimes proves to be a more enjoyable experience. For the next two hours to Pokhara the view and the breeze was great, as long as we did not look down at the tiny roads with their lack of guard rails from the ravens below. Upon our arrival in Pokhara we found a nice hotel. As I came out of the bathroom from showering I was surprised with the room decorated with maragold garlands and in the evening we enjoyed a nice dinner by the lake.

Katmandu, Nepal 10/15-10/19

     

We have officially been initiated into the world of budget traveling – or traveling on any budget for that matter. It was a good run. 15 years of incident-less jaunts for me and another 10 years for Mika. This all came to an end 15 minutes before our train departed from the Varanasi train station on our way to Delhi 2 nights ago. In an almost magical fashion, our backpack containing our passports, camera and journals was lifted off our train seat and vanished. I wish it was a better story but like I said it just disappeared. One minute it was there, I turned and then it was gone. We went to the tourist police, whom I found slumped in a plastic chair in some corner of the ticketing area. He expressed interest in telling his buddies about the story and simply said we should report it when we got into Delhi – 12 hours later. I think we handled it pretty well. After the initial shock wore off and we safely chained and locked everything else down, we accepted the incident – and the 1 week of lost photos and complete journals. Lessoned learned and initiation complete. We now had a story like everyone else. Whoopee.

On a bright note – and fairly ironic now that I think of it – we met a nice guy who was sitting with us from Germany. His name…..Merlin! You just can’t make this stuff up. (And NO he did not steal our bag).

So here we are, in Delhi, making plans to get new passports and our Indian Visa again! Supposedly it won’t be that bad this time…we shall see. The good news is that we finally have our computer courtesy of our loving downstairs neighbor Praveen and his sister Sangeeta. Nothing like a new toy to ease the pain of a lost one!

Anyway, enough of that. Back to the story.

Last we left we were in Istanbul, hurriedly rushing to catch an early flight because our ticketed flight had been cancelled. Long story short, the flight we had booked with Gulf Air had been deleted – meaning it no longer existed – which we found out at 11:45pm the day before! Instead of the 3 days we thought we had in Istanbul we only had 1 day with another day spent at the airport getting our new flight worked out. Luckily it went pretty seamlessly which was a nice change! No time for Turkish baths, bazaar shopping or for the Blue Mosque. We will have to go back. We, or better I, did manage to buy a Tupperware container full of some honey concoction that we were told would give us tons of energy on our trek. This will come back to haunt me later on at 7,000 ft in the Himalayas!

We landed in Kathmandu without any real problems and then hit the visa counter. This wasn’t so much of a problem as it was a “logistical issue”. See, the Nepalese do not accept Nepalese Rupees to get their own visa. And as an added bonus, the closest ATM is not in the airport (of course we landed in Nepal without any money). So, after leaving Mika as collateral at the visa counter, I headed to the ATM. (I had to do this 2x because in the hurry of it all I did the math wrong on the conversion to US dollars. I took out $10 the first time!). Finally back in the airport, we had to convert the Nepalese money back to USD so we could get a Nepalese Visa. And so our stay in Kathmandu began!

Kathmandu is a wild place. For me it was the first taste of real third world living. I’d like to say that its controlled chaos but I really don’t see the control. However, everyone seems to understand how it works. There are no traffic lights, stop signs or pretty much any signs whatsoever. If the roads are paved you’re happy. And even then they are riddles with pot holes the size of small cows. Oh yeah, the cows. We are now in Hindu territory – Cows are sacred and they wander wherever they want whenever they want. They are the only thing that anyone seems to yield for. They also poop anywhere they want so you better keep alert. And yes cows get diarrhea. Speaking of animals, goats, sheep, chickens and dogs seems to wander everywhere too. Except for the dogs, they all seem to belong somewhere but have their own agenda. And they all also poop everywhere!

So the “roads” are a moving mass of cars, bikes, rickshaws motorbikes, animals and the daring walking people. Everyone seems to get where they are going but never fast enough and without enough horn honking. Although they do have some creative horn sounds which I found amusing no matter how many times I heard them. But looking beyond all of this controlled chaos, Kathmandu is a wonderfully colorful place filled with the absolute nicest people. Nepalese are acutely aware that tourism is there main industry and they go out of their way to make sure you are enjoying your time there. Of course there is the haggling in all the shops and the normal touts that would rip you off in a split second, but in general they are good people.

There is also the issue of garbage. People here have no idea what a garbage can is. There is an “out of sight out of mind” policy that allows everyone to throw anything anywhere. As long as it is away from them it’s gone. So the streets are littered with everything imaginable, most of which the cows try to eat. After a while this fades into the background (as much as it possibly can of course).

We arrived in Kathmandu 2 days before the Laksmi festival. Lakshmi is the goddess of wealth and this was a time to celebrate and basically pray for good fortune. The festival lasted for 4 days and each day was a celebration of something different – however they all seems to deserve a copious amount of fireworks until the wee hours of the night! The city was adorned with flowers (mostly marigolds), candles and electric “Christmas” lights. Most houses and places of business had offerings laid out for Lakshmi at the front door with a pathway of flowers or dyed powder to the interior for the goddess to follow and bring her good fortunes. Funny thing was that the power would go out pretty much every night so the electric lights were mostly ineffective. This is Kathmandu!

We spent our days walking the town, buying some gear for our trek and learning the ways of the Nepal. We learned how to play the pool game Snooker with a couple local guys we met in a bar with a surprisingly good cover band and got a taste of the local flavors – which is mix between Indian and Chinese cuisine. A visit to the Monkey Temple, more than a couple walks through the streets of Thamel and a visit to the Rum Doodle (famous restaurant for all the climbing legends) We were ready to begin our journey into the Annapurna Range.

-Alan

Turkey

10/7 - 10/15

I think Mika and I can both agree that Turkey has always been catagorized as a "filler" for us on this trip. We had all these plans for Greece and Nepal but somehow had to travel to Istanbul to catch the flight to Kathmandu. We always assumed it would just happen. So, it is not suprising that when we got off the ferry in Marmarus (coming from Rhodes), we had to do some quick planning! We figured renting a car would be easiest and afford us the ability to meander to Kayseri over a couple days and catch a connecting flight to Istanbul. However, once in Marmarus we were slapped in the face with $100/day rental rates and $3.30 per litre gas costs. (I believe thats over $12/gallon.) So after stopping at 3 travel agencies trying to sort the mess out, we looked at each other and swallowed hard. On the simple fact that Rumi, who the rabbi quoted at our wedding, lived in a town called Konya, we booked another overnight bus ride - about 10 hours away. Mika blames my last post and says the bus gods are getting back at my negative attitude. I have since made my amends and I think we are on good terms. This bus, unlike the one in Greece, did not come with the yapping old ladies and hacking smokers. In fact, there was tea service!! All was not complete bliss however. Keep in mind that we are traveling to one of the most religious (Muslim) parts of the country. The Lonely Planet guidebook barely addresses this town and mentions not much more than it's strong commerce and again, its the most religious city in the country. So, a quarter of the way through the journey, the bus driver assistant (there are always 2 people working the bus - the driver and what I can only call the bus driver assistant!) comes over and tells Mika in his best Turkish that she has to move seats (the guy behind me typed the sentence on his computer and pushed the translate button!) It said that the "Armchairs were mixed"! Mika politely surrendered her seat to a man and moved to the front. We quickly became aware that this had something to do with her not having a penis. At the next stop, we told the bus driver assistant that this was not going to work. After minimal back and forth, he complied and the guy that had taken her seat happily sat on the floor next to us (as they had managed to oversell the bus)! So far, the Turkish people were pretty good!

The rest of the trip went quite smoothly. With the help of a couple dramamine, Mika slept for a while and we even managed to meet two guys from Quebec that were staying in Konya as well. Better yet, they had an idea of where they were going. Oh yeah, small detail. In the rush to figure out what we were doing and then catching the bus, we were not able to book or even find a hotel in our price range. Konya, it turns out, is not so cheap. So after being dropped off at 4:15am - somewhere in Turkey - Matt, Simon, Mika and I hoped in a taxi and headed to the "Centre". Matt had been to Turkey before and acted as our frontman. Within 15 minitues of being dropped off, we found a hotel and dropped our bags off. Unfortunatey we had 2-1/2 hours to kill until we could check in. Oh, and its 5:30am. So we walked. Luckily Konya's streets all go in circles so you can never really get lost. Just keep going until you are back where you started.

At 6am we heard it for the first time. I've heard it on TV before, but never live - the morning prayer being broadcast from the minnerets via huge megaphones. It was chilling to hear the first time and I had strange 9/11 type emotions. (We still cant figure out if its a live rendition or an automated broadcats because there is a weird noise the end that sounds like a tape player turning off). After you hear it a couple times though it almost becomes like basic clock. Funny, as I type this it just started again!

Konya is, for the most part, a religious outpost in the middle of the country and has somehow attracted big business to its suberbs. The town itself is very old and dilapidated. The men don't seem to do much but sit and watch the day go by while drinking their tea and smoking - and maybe pestering you to buy a rug. Mika and I have both agreed that the Turks smoke more than the Greeks. Which says a lot. The air always has a hint of tobacco in it. We learned about Rumi and the Wirling Dervishes and strolled the bazaars.

Along the way we were picked up by a man dressed in jeans, cowboy boots and a clean botton down with a purple sweater draped over his shoulders. I forget his name but I entertained him in hopes of some free chai. After realizing that we had no money for carpets, he told us stories about who knows what and showed us his pictures of his travels. Him in front of the space needle in Seattle, at the Statue of Liberty etc. He turns us on to a couple restaraunts and we depart with laughs and good wishes. Well it turns out that this guy might as well be the mayor of this little Konya square. Ever time we turn around there he is with his purple sweater perfectly placed. He sat down with us at dinner and told us stories of going to disco and making crazy love! Gotta love it!

I do have to mention one fairly strange thing that happened while in Konya - apart from the purple sweater guy. While booking a bus ticket, a guy had come by to help translate for the ticket taker. We made small talk and he asked our background. Somehow he got to ask me if I was Jewish. I responded Yes. He in turn responded by saying that "he thought so because I smelled like a Jew". I have no idea what this means. I think I was offended but am not sure why. Yes the guy was creepy but for the most part harmless - oh and supposedly he was Jewish too. Anyway, we aint in Kansas anymore.

We left the next morning for Groeme in the Cappadocia region. I have to give a quick shout out to Harvey and Jay for directing us here. Cappadocia is a little hard to explain. Pictures are better than words. Basically, the region was covered by volcanic lava and ash millions of years ago. It has since been eroded into mounds by wind and rain. This soft rock was then carved out to create homes by Christians as they fled from whomever might be trying to kill them at that moment. They lived underground in very complex caves. These caves and this area has since been turned into hotels, bars, night clubs etc.

I will always remember Cappacaonia as the place that Mika discovered that she likes board games. Or at least one game. Backgammon. After beating me repeatedly, Mika took a very strong liking to the game and we played for hours.

We are currently in Istanbul which is a nice mix of old and new. We are starting to get the flavors of Asia while still seeing the comforts of Europe. We probably need more time here but the mountains of Nepal are calling and mother nature waits for no one. This may be the last entry for a while. We are lucky to be in Nepal for the festival of Lights (no not Hannukah) which celebrates the Goddess Lakshmi. After what will hopefully be nights of festivities and fireworks we head into the Himilayans via the Annapurna Circuit for about 3 weeks.

Looking forward to writing about our adventures from the top of the world. Until then....

Alan and Mika