Traveling Souls: April 2010

March 29 - April 6, 2010

This is it. The end of the line.

There is not a whole hell of a lot to say about Fiji. We stayed on the main island mostly because we just wanted to stay put but the fact that the cost to get out onto the smaller island was outrageous didn't help. It worked out just fine though. The backpackers that we stayed in was right on the water and apparently had been featured in some British reality TV show recently, so was in decent shape (although the pool pump broke on the 3rd day and the water slowly turned a neon green color over the next couple days).

What made Fiji fun were the people. There were a group of 8-10 people, all our age and all traveling for long periods and all happened to be spending about a week at the backpackers. It was the perfect way to wrap up the trip, with a melting pot of people from all over the globe.

The days just melted into each other. Our routine was basically the same. Morning swim, breakfast at 8:30ish, sit in hammock and read, morning activity of snorkeling or walk on the beach or remain sitting in hammock, lunch, afternoon activity of horseback riding or snorkeling or walk on the beach or back to hammock, afternoon tea, volleyball, swim, happy hour, dinner, hang out with new people. We left the compound twice in 9 days, and for never more than 4 hours. Once to go on a walk to a waterfall (which we hurried back from because we were hungry) and the other to go to a local church for Easter service.

We drank Kava, the traditional Fiji drink made from roots and gulped down in half a coconut, watched the sunset and generally unwound from 7 months of hard travel. Who knew it would be this exhausting.

There are two things worth mentioning. First, Mika and I bought a hermit crab that came in third place at the Hermit Crab Race and earned us $43 and I discovered that I am quite the fisherman. 3 snappers, one white and 2 red, with a hand line. Who would have thought?

It's been such a wonderful adventure for both of us. More than I think either of us ever imagined. Given the funds, I think we could have done this for a long, long time.

Until then.

THE END

Low tide the reef

Our hermit crab

A successful fishing trip for Alan

Kava Ceremony

Easter Sunday at the neighboring village

Our delicious fish dinner courtasy of Alan

Wellington was a welcomed sight after the swells we braved on the ferry crossing. It was St Patrick's Day, the weather was getting colder due to a southerly coming in from Antarctica and we were way overdue on doing laundry and having a hot shower. It was an easy decision to stay in the city at a hostel for the night. We met a group of Brits traveling together and it wasn't long before we were all heading out to celebrate. New Zealanders’ love St. Paddy's Day and they aren't afraid to show it. Every restaurant and bar was caught up in the festivities and we welcomed the party atmosphere. After all, it had been a long time since we had been in a town that had restaraunts and bars open after 9pm let alone enough people to fill them. I am happy to say that we can still hang with the young crowd. In fact, we were the last ones to roll back into the hostel that night; everyone else was passed out sleeping. Still got it!

After a half ass attempt at a bagel and cream cheese the next morning (it’s the little things you miss about home - no one but NY does this right), we headed North. We were heading toward the Tongararo National Park. For anyone who has seen any part of the trilogy Lord of the Rings, Tongararo is the home of Mt. Doom and the Tongararo Crossing is probably the number one trek in the North Island. It is a one day walk about 20km that takes you up and over a pair of semi-active volcanoes, Mt. Doom included.

After our late night out however, neither of us were up to making the drive all the way to the park in one day. We stopped about two hours short and stayed at one of the DOC campsites along the way. This one just happened to be WAY off the beaten path, 15km down a gravel road, the last 2km of which required us to pass through a private farm. As we made our way through the sheep, barking dogs and usual chicken and hens we couldn't help but notice how eerie the place felt. Then we came to some of the largest cattle we had ever seen. These guys were huge and for some reason followed us as we passed through the many gates of the farm mooing all the way. We were the only ones camping there that night and luckily, the lack of sleep the night before plus the Mac and cheese dinner (from scratch) put us to sleep before the sun went down (around 8:30pm). After getting what was becoming our usual 11-12 hours of sleep, we packed up, passed through the gauntlet of farm animals and got back on the road. We made one more stop before getting to the park, at the River Valley Rafting Lodge - a place I had been to 5 years ago and remembered fondly.

Once again, our attempt at white water rafting was foiled by our timing. The lack of rain had the water levels running and near walking levels and we opted instead for their spa and sauna package which included a hot shower - a huge plus! We lounged around for the day, relaxing by the river and waiting for the chicken roast dinner they provided every night which was just as delicious as I remembered.

Like most of NZ's great walks the Tongararo is a logistical problem. The trail heads are 30-40km apart and no bus service is provided directly between the two. Cocky from our experience on the Routeburn, we simply parked our car at one end and started walking thinking we could just hitch a ride back. When I did the walk 5 year ago there were maybe a dozen people on the trail. Times they have a changed. As Mika and I enjoyed our coffee, chai and cereal at the trail head, bus after bus unloaded a stream of happy go lucky tourists ready to tackle what was certainly the biggest hike for most of them. We looked on astonished, knowing full well these people were only going to get in our way until the ascent started. Then they would weed themselves out!

After a foggy morning start which began to lift as we walked across the lowest crater, the day ended up being spectacular. We were able to weave through the masses and enjoy the trail on a much less touristy level. Maybe we were being a bit snobbish about how we hike but it really is an important part of the experience.

We got off the trail around 2pm and immediately head to the main road looking for a ride back. However, unlike the Routeburn, we saw 4 vehicles in the 45mins that we waited and no one seemed interested in picking us up. Frustrated, we coughed up $20 and I got on a bus back to our van and then came back to pick up Mika.

From Tongararo we moved northeast to the shores of the Coromandel Peninsula. The Coromandel is a pristine peninsula (obviously) that reminded us a lot of the South Island. Winding roads that follow the coastline, campsites that overlook the beach and more never ending sunsets. We spent one afternoon at the famous Cathedral Arch and then visited the nearby Hot Beach. The Hot Beach is a stretch of sand that lies over a natural hot spring. When the tide goes out, you can dig a hole in the sand and once you hit the spring you have your own private spa. Sounds like a good idea, but when you add 100 tourists, wet dogs and kids without pants on it becomes more of a spectacle sport. We were in the peninsula for 4 days – it was beautiful.

With 4 days left on our New Zealand visit, we need to head to Auckland to sell the van. Mickey II had been just as loyal as Mickey I, but it was time to pass him on to his next owner. We had heard the car market was better in Auckland than Christchurch so we even hinted at the idea of making a profit. We rolled straight into the Auckland City Library to make For Sale posters and buy a cell phone so all the many potential buyers could call us. After posting the signs at all the surrounding hostels and backpackers, we waited dutifully by the phone. And we waited and waited. Not one single call. All day. The next day we brought the car to an auto market and tried our luck again. Aside from meeting more Israeli’s and a coupe from Germany, our luck didn’t change. Our last hope was a Car Fair the next morning down at the harbor. We spent the night at a DOC park just outside the city and enjoyed our last couple days living on the road. The next morning we waited 18 minutes before the first couple that walked up took Mickey II for a spin around the block which ended at the Post Office where all auto transactions are handled. We sold the van for $300 more than we bought it! For a couple minutes we were the rock stars of the Car Fair. As everyone else lowered their price and sweated about what to do in worst case scenario, we pondered how to best spend our new found treasure….maybe dinner in a restaurant!!!

Our last two days we did nothing more than sleep late, wander around town and see a movie (Crazy Heart). This was the beginning of the end. Last stop Fiji.

-Alan